Tuesday, December 3, 2019

Saturday, November 23, 2019- Leaving the Ship and Molokai

View of our course, which was updated every day.


All good things must come to an end.  We left the ship after breakfast and were transported to a hospitality suite at the Hotel Molokai.  There were shuttles into town and I took one, planning to get lunch there.


I walked through all the stalls at the open-air market and bought yet another pair of earrings, but the restaurants were all hamburger and pizza places and, of course, coffee shops.  I realized that this is Molokai.  If they pandered to tourists and added vegan restaurants and a Starbucks, it wouldn't be the real Molokai anymore.  I went back to the hotel and had a perfectly nice lunch there instead.

A group of us left for the airport at the same time.  There were many hugs and fond farewells at the gates; this was one of the nicest groups I've ever traveled with and that's saying a lot; UnCruise tends to attract smart, curious, down-to-earth people anyway.  Maybe it was that this group was even smaller than previous trips; it was only a 36-passenger ship compared to about twice that on the others.

I loved the livery on this plane, which an aviation-nut friend told me was an updated version of a Dash-8 with apiston (not jet) engine.  He also said that the scimitar-shaped blades were a recent innovation.  In less than an hour we were back at Honolulu Airport.  I could have saved myself time and money by connecting right away to my flight home but had another night in Honolulu.

Wednesday, November 27, 2019

Sunday, November 24, 2019- Heading Home

My flight didn't leave till 6 PM but checkout time for the hotel was noon.  Rather than try to get a late checkout, I decided to take a last walk through the area, have lunch and head for the airport since there was an Admiral's Club (combined with a Japan Airlines Sakura Lounge) there.

As with past walks down Kalakaua Avenue, I got a good laugh at some of the merchandise.  Who BUYS a Jimmy Choo handbag festooned with ostrich feathers?

The lounge was a great place to hang out with some interesting Japanese food as well as traditional American stuff, but I tried to keep it light knowing we'd be fed on the plane, too. 

I DID want to take this toilet home with me.  The seat is warmed by an electrical unit within and there's a built-in bidet.  All it was missing, from what I could tell, was a dryer unit.

Monday, March 25, 2019

Friday, March 15, 2019: From Kansas City to San Juan del Cabo


Being paranoid about missing connections, I chose a morning flight to DFW with an 8-hour layover for my flight to Cabo San Lucas.  It was OK- at least as a solo traveler I wasn’t subjecting anyone else to my crazy timetable and as a Business Class passenger I could hang out in the Admirals Club and enjoy munchies, sit on nice couches and get drinks from the open bar.  Or maybe not.  It turned out that I was not eligible to use the Club for free but could buy a day pass.  No, thanks.  I did some research and eventually found a generic club that wasn’t quite as good as the Admiral’s Club but was $20 cheaper and didn’t reward AA by paying them for a perk they’d taken away when I wasn’t looking.  The Club at DFW had just about every seat taken and felt more claustrophobic but it filled the bill.

It was a VERY long layover, made worse by a one-hour delay, but eventually we took off and I sighed with relief.  The flight added to my disappointment with American; for a flight of almost 3 hours leaving at 8 PM, we were served a small dish of warm mixed nuts (typical  AA appetizer) followed by- a warm cookie.  Pitiful.  I was grateful for my supply of protein bars.

There was no line at all at Immigration at SJC, the timeshare touts had all gone home, and I soon found my driver and got to my hotel- the Grand Barcelo, which was beautiful even in the dark.

Saturday, March 16- San Juan del Cabo


I woke up at 5 AM- which meant I’d slept only 5 hours, but the adrenaline levels were high and I couldn’t get back to sleep.  I made a pot of coffee and then headed to the gym and had a good workout.  I was really able to appreciate the beauty of the hotel grounds in the daylight and had a happy walk on the beach after leaving my two bags in the room secured by the cruise line.  (I later went back to retrieve my sunscreen and a hat.  Not good to get sunburned before I even get on the ship.)

Early-morning view from the room.





At 4 PM we were put on a bus for the 3-hour drive to the port of La Paz.  The Pacific Ocean was just beyond the hotel but they told us that leaving from there would involve a bumpy 8-10 hour initial journey over high waves (“Pacific” being a misnomer here).  La Paz is a resort area for many Mexicans; I was surprised at the variety of ethnic restaurants as well as the American imports I hadn’t seen before this (Applebee’s and Subway).   The area was full of families out walking, buying ice cream and enjoying a pleasant Saturday night.

We boarded the ship and had dinner after a short series of introductions by the Captain and a few crew members.  Afterwards we had a presentation in the lounge by a crew member who told us about the history of the area- starting with slides showing how the action of tectonic plates formed the Baja Peninsula and the Sea of Cortes.  I was in heaven- typically UnCruise staff have advanced degrees in fields related to our travel but this was the first time one had included them in a presentation.  I was very happy to have a geology nut on board!

Sunday, March 17- Espirito Santo


I woke up at 5:45 AM- more adrenaline and not quite adjusted to the time change, but I’d had 7 hours of sleep.  It would do.   I walked out of my cabin and was greeted by scenery so beautiful I went right back in and got my camera.  A couple of islands filled with sea lions loomed ahead of us.  We heard them before we saw them.

As the morning briefings were about to start after breakfast, the crew spied a pod of dolphins.  We cruised in the area and watched them for about half an hour.  I never got any shots of the ones that jumped totally out of the water- it’s partly a matter of luck.  It was spectacular to watch, though, especially the juveniles.  



My first excursion was a Desert Walk on Espirito Santo- a mix of upheaved sea bed and volcanic action; you could see the remains of shells upheaved but not fossilized.  The island was almost sold to developers who were going to build a casino/resort complex until a group of nonprofits and philanthropists quietly bought the property and gave it back to the Mexican government.  Access is by permit only with restrictions as to where you can go.  



Flowering cactus.


Remains of a porcupine fish.





I remembered Sarah, the guide, from an Alaskan cruise Ron and I had taken; I have a picture of her hand with a large banana slug in it.  She was talking to it at the time and trying to convince us that the ooze on its skin had medicinal properties.  Sarah LOVES nature and had an encyclopedia knowledge of the critters and vegetation on this walk.

We were given a choice of two out of four possible excursions tomorrow:  a 2-hour burro ride, Kayaking 101, a 2-hour guided kayak paddle and a 2.5-hour hike.  I chose the last two and the Expedition Leader headed to his room and his computer to get the groups organized.

There was a presentation on coral in the lounge after dinner by a crew member.  I was wiped out after two nights of insufficient sleep so I headed to my cabin but turned on the audio portion using the speaker in my room as I got ready for bed.  He was fascinating.  He went over the different kinds and characteristics of coral species but then took a “macro” view and reminded those of us at the top of the food chain what a major stake we had in protecting the bottom of the food chain, right down to the plankton.  He talked about how the species endemic to this area (i.e., not found anywhere else in the world) had adapted both to the environment and to each other and how disturbing one element would threaten the entire system.  From there he discussed the combination of factors in this area (sunlight, climate, land masses, etc.) which combined to make the Baja Peninsula one of the most chlorophyll-rich areas in the world, capable of supporting a wide variety of life.  Jacques Cousteau called the Sea of Cortes “the world’s aquarium”.   As if to prove Cousteau’s point, I’d seen a school of needlefish under the water by the boat as I’d gone back to my room that night.

I was VERY grateful I had the luxury of listening to this in my room because at 9 PM when the Q&A session was winding down turned out the light and slept soundly till 6 the next morning when I was awakened by the sound of the anchor winches as we came into port at Aqua Verde.  I needed that sleep!

Monday, March 18- Agua Verde

Another glorious sunrise. A typical morning on one of these cruises consists of me walking out of my cabin and saying, “Wow”.

This island is called, creatively, "Isla Solitaria".





After breakfast, I headed out with my hiking group. It was, as promised, rigorous. We climbed to a ridge at the top of the mountain, got pictures of the views from every angle, and climbed down again. It was rocky and the obstacles included the occasionally thorny plants. I accidentally tried to grab a cactus as I scrambled up a hill. Oops. In 3 hours we covered less than 2 miles. It was the perfect level of exertion for me; I felt pleasantly worn out but not exhausted. Good thing- the kayak trip would begin after lunch!

Fortified by a good meal and a couple of electrolyte tablets (for prevention), I set off on the kayak tour. Since I was traveling alone, they assigned me a partner-a young man named Fabio in his 20s (no, he did not resemble THAT Fabio in the least) who usually worked in the kitchen. He’d been out kayaking only once before but supplied the necessary extra muscle power and we had a nice conversation. He’d been with UnCruise only 3 years- had worked in restaurants and for one mega-cruise line until he heard about this one from a friend who worked for UnCruise. Quite a few of UnCruise employees had worked for the big lines and were happy to be with this one. Other employees told me later that Fabio was one of their hardest workers but it was hard to get him out of the kitchen. I told them he did a great job. I think he enjoyed the scenery and the birds as much as I did. I found later that it was typical for a crew member to join and excursion in their off-hours; it allowed them to learn about the areas they visited. I liked that. Our guide told us that the mountains were still moving away from each other as the Pacific Plate separated from the North American plate. We saw some Sally-go-Lightly crabs, a couple of tiny grebes, some pelicans, a cormorant, an osprey, one of the ever-present turkey vultures and a glossy ibis. I got back into the rhythm of paddling easily even though I hadn’t been in a kayak in awhile, so between Fabio’s extra muscle and my expertise we kept up with the group.


On the water with "the other Fabio".

Cocktail hour was up in the sun deck so we could enjoy the beautiful evening. At dinner I joined a woman with her 12-year old granddaughter. She’d clearly had a lot of “work” done on her face and I didn’t think we’d have a lot in common but she turned out to be 75 (VERY hard to believe.. almost made me want to get a facelift) and was a retired attorney who worked in Contracts law and was taking her grandchildren, one at a time, on adventures, which is exactly what I want to do. I met some really great women on this trip- a dentist, a CFA, an IT troubleshooter who works with offshored teams in India as I did, a retired Anthropology professor and a Physician’s Assistant. Many were with a group called Women Traveling Together, which I have to check out.



I stayed in the lounge for the evening lecture on birds- Sarah, one of my favorite guides, was presenting it and I wanted to see pictures. Sarah’s favorite bird is the loggerhead shrike, a cute little birdie that captures its prey but lacks the claws and beak to tear it apart, so it spears it on whatever is available- a sharp branch or a piece of barbed wire- and bites off little pieces. Nice. It’s even smart enough to let prey that contain toxins sit where they’ve been impaled for a few days till the toxins are no longer active. Another interesting detail: the American bald eagle is “kleptoparasitic”, meaning it steals the prey other birds have caught. Ben Franklin was against naming it the national bird of the US because of its “poor moral habits”. I was sipping some wine at the time and still have a purple stain on my blouse from my reaction when I heard that one.

Tuesday, March 19- Isla Monserrat


They had told us on the first day that the itinerary was subject to “wind, weather, whales and whim”, and this time the conditions were right to visit Isola Monserrat, which wasn’t usually on the itinerary.   Early-morning treats included a pod of dolphins and a school of grebes. 

My complimentary massage was scheduled with Niko at 9 AM.  I’d had massages but never with masseur, just a masseuse.  Well, vacations are opportunities to try new things.  Niko was also the most over-qualified massage practitioner I’d ever had; he’d studied Physics in France.  Despite the strenuous activities the day before. I was surprisingly not aching anywhere (thank you, Planet Fitness).  The massage was very relaxing; the scalp massages made me wonder if they might have helped when I got migraines in my 30s.  I’d planned to use the fitness machines before my 11:15 snorkeling trip but decided not to work my mellowed-out muscles so soon. 

My main concern about the snorkeling trip I’d chosen was the cold water and, even with a wet suit, I was COLD.  It goes with the territory when you have low body fat.  I tried to channel my inner Jacques Cousteau- he’d been lean, had undoubtedly endured colder waters for longer intervals than this, and had died- what- in his 80s?- probably with his swim fins on.

It was well worth it.  I saw multiple beautiful fish including a balloon puffer fish, Panamic sergeant major, Cortez rainbow wrasse, king angelfish, Cortez angelfish, beaubrummel and (I think) goldenjack, many variety of coral and two types of sea stars (possibly tan sea star and channeled sea star).  I learned to slow down and linger over an area, looking closely for smaller critters and those well-camouflaged.  We were in the water 45 minutes and arrived back just in time for lunch.   That sounded good but I realized that a shower or a dip in the hot tub would have helped take off the chill.  I had hot coffee with dinner, followed it up with herbal tea in the lounge, then sat outside and baked in the sun for awhile.  Sarah took these pictures with her underwater camera but I saw the same species; you can see why I squeezed into a wet suit and braved the cold water.



After lunch I’d planned to work out but realized my iPod Shuffle was dead, so I plugged it in to recharge.  Good timing- the crew sighted a pod of dolphins, closer to the boat than any we’d seen previously, as well as a juvenile sea lion.  Then, the bonus- a blue-footed booby flying overhead.  I’d always joked that I wanted to see one before I left this earth.  I think I still want to go to the Galapagos next year!   With my iPod recharged, I worked up a good sweat listening to classic rock music and using the exercise equipment on deck.  I laughed out loud when the playlist turned up Huey Lewis’ “Working for a Living”.  (“Damned if you do, damned if you don’t, supposed to get a raise next week you know damned well I won’t… takin’ what they’re givin; ‘cause I’m workin’ for a livin’”.)  I laughed out loud at the realization that the place I’d left at age 61 due to toxic politics was full of people in their cubicles tapping on computers, and followed it up with a punk rock version of “Laudate Dominum” by a group called “Helloween”.  After a much-needed shower and a change of clothes, I headed for the lounge for some water and then joined a stretch class.

Another unscheduled appearance- just as diner was about to start the crew spotted a whale far off in the distance.  We all scrambled out with cameras and binoculars.  I eventually saw them with my naked eye.  The crew was uncertain whether it was a blue whale or a fin whale.  As the daylight faded, the colors of the horizon faded from an amazing blend of blue to the horizon, purple in the middle and dark blue above to total darkness with the light of the full moon making the waters sparkle- truly magical.  Dinner started half an hour late.  I love the priorities of UnCruise!
The presentation after dinner was on whale sharks, which we were to meet on Friday.  I was tired enough to retire to my room and enjoy it as I prepared for bed.